Piraeus
Finally I found time to visit Piraeus, the most important harbour of Greece. It is even today separate from Athens city, although practically forms one city, with all the surrounding municipalities of Athens. See http://www.athensguide.org/piraeus.html
My previous visit was in weekend, during the market day, what was not the best idea, as it was ...rather disgusting experience. Not a colorful almost-asian market, but some dirty, shapeless afro-balcan-gipsy smelly bazaar. What I expected of Piraeus was some spirit of old Levantine times, preserved from the times when this mediterranean culture was flourishing in Alexandria, harbours of Middle East, Greek part of Turkey and southern Italy. What I found was...not so enchanting. Only some almost-ruined buildings witnessed that period, the rest disappeared.
On the other hand, this means that the place is alive, not some museum.
Arriving to Faliro station by metro line to Piraeus shows you at once that Athens hosted the Olympics recently.
Accross the road is the second one:
Also the station itself is quite interesting architectonically:
The bridge accross the highway was here with interesting background, I love this kind of buildings in Athens, as seen here in the hill. It gives it some...desert-like quality. Probably effect of white color and blinding sun-light.
Going towards Mikrolimano harbour is this water-chanel from Delfinarium-notice the buildings on the walls-these are the walls of ancient Piraeus!
Sure, today they are made stronger with concrete:
Harbour of Mikrolimano, from Turkish times. Today more place for small restaurants and pleasant apartments.
But in the main street it is still visible this was fishermen's village not so long time ago. This reminds me to Simuni on Pag!
Such vies are what you would expect in the place with such a mixed history.
This kind of beauties I went to search here! I love such old buildings, in their proper place.
As I said, this reminds me on Pag sometimes...
I found serbian king's street there:
This building followed the fate of the king...
As I said, I like these old building in their original postings...
Going further towards Port Zea (Pashalimano) is quite surprisingly plesant beach (but probably only out of season, later I would expect BIG crowd here!):
View from the other side of the beach is quite inspirative. Should be tried with beautiful girl with almond-eyes... ;-)
Pasalimano (Port Zea today) is just newly built facilites for the smaller boats...it was Pasha's harbour in Ottoman times. I expected more of this place.
But this is as I think oldfashioned way...pashas are still here-see the yachts...!
Filigran of Ottomans is present ...although not so exposed.
And this says to me some people here still have the spirit of Levant!
Emperess is still present...at least in the name of fishermen's boat!
Sure, history you discover here depends on...how dep you dig.
Entering Piraeus you can not be sure what is building and what some BIG ship. This one was really a ship, although I already thought it is some clever architect's idea...
Kafeneio...people here spend lots of time sipping some Greek coffee or so
And again my favorite topic
It may seem a bit strange to enjoy view of rottening old houses...but they were as this 100 years ago, I expect.
Yes, they are really remnants of the old times, and will soon disappear or be incorporated in some new glass-concrete structures.
Here I bought Cretan cheese, quite good one! Shop (in the very corner of the building) attracted me by its...khm...khm...ancient look.
9.5 eur/kg of sheep cheese which resembles Pag cheese (but young one, not after few months)
Shadow is needed...and protection of rain (however rare here!), this one gives scent of what it was like some 100 years ago.
There is more churches in Piraeus, but church of Ag.Triados (St.Trinity) is orientation point for the sailors approaching the harbour.
It is amazing to see these ruins here-but they will fast be replaced by something new, activity is great here.
Usual market street, this guy seems to sell everything of paper...original Holy Bible also could be found, if U look better!
Greek coffee is NOT turkish coffee - at least since 1974 (Turkish invasion on Cyprus). I must say I am deeply dissapointed with the coffee here. Any turkish coffee from former yugoslavia region is MUCH better. Also, it is not easy to find some good coffee in shops, this powder which U can find for 9eur/kg is NOT what you'd expect, it is mild burnt BAD quality coffee. Better find some place where U can find some darker variant. I am not saying you can not find good coffee, but it is not easy. Greeks themselves prefer nescaffe! O tempora, o mores! If U go out, try "Illy" espresso (thanks PP for the tip!).
Rembetika locals...music and dances. Here it could be possible to find genuine ones, I think. I did not try yet, mea Culpa, mea maxima Culpa.
"Apotiki" below is kiosk in Greek way..."we sell everything"!
My previous visit was in weekend, during the market day, what was not the best idea, as it was ...rather disgusting experience. Not a colorful almost-asian market, but some dirty, shapeless afro-balcan-gipsy smelly bazaar. What I expected of Piraeus was some spirit of old Levantine times, preserved from the times when this mediterranean culture was flourishing in Alexandria, harbours of Middle East, Greek part of Turkey and southern Italy. What I found was...not so enchanting. Only some almost-ruined buildings witnessed that period, the rest disappeared.
On the other hand, this means that the place is alive, not some museum.
Arriving to Faliro station by metro line to Piraeus shows you at once that Athens hosted the Olympics recently.
Accross the road is the second one:
Also the station itself is quite interesting architectonically:
The bridge accross the highway was here with interesting background, I love this kind of buildings in Athens, as seen here in the hill. It gives it some...desert-like quality. Probably effect of white color and blinding sun-light.
Going towards Mikrolimano harbour is this water-chanel from Delfinarium-notice the buildings on the walls-these are the walls of ancient Piraeus!
Sure, today they are made stronger with concrete:
Harbour of Mikrolimano, from Turkish times. Today more place for small restaurants and pleasant apartments.
But in the main street it is still visible this was fishermen's village not so long time ago. This reminds me to Simuni on Pag!
Such vies are what you would expect in the place with such a mixed history.
This kind of beauties I went to search here! I love such old buildings, in their proper place.
As I said, this reminds me on Pag sometimes...
I found serbian king's street there:
This building followed the fate of the king...
As I said, I like these old building in their original postings...
Going further towards Port Zea (Pashalimano) is quite surprisingly plesant beach (but probably only out of season, later I would expect BIG crowd here!):
View from the other side of the beach is quite inspirative. Should be tried with beautiful girl with almond-eyes... ;-)
Pasalimano (Port Zea today) is just newly built facilites for the smaller boats...it was Pasha's harbour in Ottoman times. I expected more of this place.
But this is as I think oldfashioned way...pashas are still here-see the yachts...!
Filigran of Ottomans is present ...although not so exposed.
And this says to me some people here still have the spirit of Levant!
Emperess is still present...at least in the name of fishermen's boat!
Sure, history you discover here depends on...how dep you dig.
Entering Piraeus you can not be sure what is building and what some BIG ship. This one was really a ship, although I already thought it is some clever architect's idea...
Kafeneio...people here spend lots of time sipping some Greek coffee or so
And again my favorite topic
It may seem a bit strange to enjoy view of rottening old houses...but they were as this 100 years ago, I expect.
Yes, they are really remnants of the old times, and will soon disappear or be incorporated in some new glass-concrete structures.
Here I bought Cretan cheese, quite good one! Shop (in the very corner of the building) attracted me by its...khm...khm...ancient look.
9.5 eur/kg of sheep cheese which resembles Pag cheese (but young one, not after few months)
Shadow is needed...and protection of rain (however rare here!), this one gives scent of what it was like some 100 years ago.
There is more churches in Piraeus, but church of Ag.Triados (St.Trinity) is orientation point for the sailors approaching the harbour.
It is amazing to see these ruins here-but they will fast be replaced by something new, activity is great here.
Usual market street, this guy seems to sell everything of paper...original Holy Bible also could be found, if U look better!
Greek coffee is NOT turkish coffee - at least since 1974 (Turkish invasion on Cyprus). I must say I am deeply dissapointed with the coffee here. Any turkish coffee from former yugoslavia region is MUCH better. Also, it is not easy to find some good coffee in shops, this powder which U can find for 9eur/kg is NOT what you'd expect, it is mild burnt BAD quality coffee. Better find some place where U can find some darker variant. I am not saying you can not find good coffee, but it is not easy. Greeks themselves prefer nescaffe! O tempora, o mores! If U go out, try "Illy" espresso (thanks PP for the tip!).
Rembetika locals...music and dances. Here it could be possible to find genuine ones, I think. I did not try yet, mea Culpa, mea maxima Culpa.
"Apotiki" below is kiosk in Greek way..."we sell everything"!
posted by mikidkolan | 7:17 AM
2 Comments:
Ahhh so nice to see peiraeus... its like my 2nd home now... interesting blog!
Miki, I must take a day or two off to study your photographs, there are so many... y. Marijan
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